The Bespoke Experience with Calla Lily – Constellations Turquoise Necklace

The Bespoke Experience with Calla Lily – Constellations Turquoise Necklace


About Calla Lily

From restyling gemmed heirlooms that have been passed down through the generations, to creating one-of-a-kind pieces that will in turn be bestowed, Calla Lily Fine Jewellers’ designs narrate cherished tales through precious gemstones.

Calla Lily is Emily’s first independent brand since she strode onto Singapore’s bespoke jewellery scene a decade ago following stints with internationally renowned designers like Jimmy Choo Couture and Kara Ross New York.

Emily Tan in studio

Emily Tan in her studio, curating gemstones and working on designs.

“We differentiate ourselves by having a fun and uninhibited take on luxury. We create statement pieces that can be worn every day, rather than only at cocktail parties. Our clients also value our ability to suggest designs like a jewellery stylist. We focus on giving advice and educating, always co-creating with our clients.”

– Emily Tan

As a designer, Emily, took her first steps into fashion in footwear. She joined Jimmy Choo Couture in London after graduating from the London College of Fashion. Following a stint with Marni in Italy, she moved to Vietnam to work on costume jewellery. But her desire, really, was to create pieces that last. That’s why she moved back to Singapore and began designing fine bespoke jewellery and working with gems. She went to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) to study, test and identify gemstones, and was drawn to the beauty of gemstones. Coloured gems weren’t as easy to find in Singapore, and she was drawn to their uniqueness. She never looked back.

Turquoise Aquamarine brooch

The constellations and beauty of the stars depicted with the moonstones and diamonds, reflects onto the aquamarine seas, surrounded by sapphire coastal flowers and turquoise pebbles. It’s meant to depict how the patterns of the stars, their reflections, and organic life all have similar patterns. A dream of unity in our beautiful solar system and on earth. A piece that reflects, joyful peace, calm and beauty.

Why do you feel it’s very special to have something custom made?

A custom-made jewellery piece allows you to tell a personal story. Whether it be a memorable event, special relationship, or milestone in your life, you can express this through a co-created piece with our designers.

Your intentions can be fully expressed, as every detail of the design, and every gemstone can be curated to create your dream piece.

For example, one of our favourite pieces is a Remembrance Ring and Brooch, created to cherish the memory of, Hibiki, our client’s beloved munchkin cat that had passed away. Co-creating with our client, we designed a double-shank cat ring with diamonds the same greyish brown as Hibiki’s coat, and a green-beryl centre stone the same soft green as his eyes.

Recently, we created a special engagement ring for our client who wanted to propose to his beloved girlfriend. His grandmother had gifted him three gems that were dear to her, and he chose to show his love for his partner by using these gems to create the ring. The piece was further personalised with the ring curvature forming an eternity loop to symbolise his devotion to his partner, and he chose a gradient of pink Sapphires according to the colours she loves.

Collage of inspiration

A collage of inspiration for the Constellations Turquoise Necklace.

With a bespoke piece the challenge is reflecting the client’s unique persona and eccentricities while, as a designer, providing your recommendations and advice to make sure the piece turns out stunning.

With every bespoke design, we enter new challenges and push our creative boundaries, which is indeed one of our greatest desires as artists, to breakthrough and keep evolving.

It’s an organic growth with my clients as we build their collection together, from simple classic designs, to eventually more complex pieces. Overtime, better understanding their style perspectives, to develop various looks that are inherently their own.

The ultimate joy, is seeing their faces light up when they collect their one-of-a-kind piece! Their stories and affections are what we’re after!

What’s needed to make a bespoke piece at Calla Lily?

People’s ideas, people’s stories, people’s experiences, they all give us inspiration. What we’re looking for is your heart’s desire. Our process always starts with a conversation – a client shares their story, their likes and dislikes, and we’ll curate gemstones and create sketches until something takes shape. We’ll tweak the sketches, and come out with several detailed design options, each with unique features, for our clients to ponder over. We’ll discuss the designs over tea, coffee, and chocolates.

Drawing with gems and turquoise beads

The client brief was to create a modular piece, a brooch and necklace. A design to bring out and complement the robin-egg blue of the gorgeous turquoise beads.

Then we’ll start to work with our craftsmen on the 3D computer model, making adjustments to get it perfect before the gold is casted. For complex pieces, our clients may visit us to view and try on the wax moulds, or casings, to make sure everything fits well and is coming along in line with their wishes. Once the piece is polished and the gems are set its ready for collection!

The process is collaborative with the client from start to end, and we don’t rush it. That’s why it’s hard to say exactly how long a piece takes – it depends on the complexity. The process can take anywhere between two months and a year.